What I do know is that the bolt that connects to the main water inlet to the timing chain was replaced with a longer one. This caused the bolt to push against the timing guides and have it rub against the timing chain. The result was a mostly eroded timing guide and a weakened chain. I talked with JG and told him to just get me a brand new timing kit so we replace this and get the car started.
To ensure that the motor was worthy of this task, we went ahead and a brief compression check across all 6 cylinders. Results are as follows: 150 145 130 140 120 130. These are not completely accurate, but it gave us a general idea for the L24's general health. An interesting note is that there is a oil sprayer rail for the camshaft in these engines. From what I understand that is a rarity considering a lot of cams are self-lubed, so seeing this actually made me kind of perk up. It's such a well thought out engine..well in theory.. THIS particular one however is a bit strange. Someone tell me HOW THE HELL YOU DO THIS??
Here are some others I took with my phone:
I gotta seriously question the mechanical aptitude of the guy that shoves in a bolt that's too long and thinks it's ok. I'm also not going to even START on the condition of the brakes before we swapped 'em out. Let's just say they if the Funk ever died, the existing rotors would've been able to re-ignite the groove. Lame I know lol.
In any case the timing kit is on it's way and after that we're going to hopefully get this car running :)
I really wouldn't mess around on safety equipment like brakes, so try to find some local s12+8 calipers off a Toyota truck/4runner. All you have to do is cut back the dust shield and they'll slide right on and mount to the original rotors and caliper mounting brackets (using the same bolts, no less!)
ReplyDeleteWith those compression numbers, you may actually want to go ahead and replace the rings as well, you really don't want any cylinder to be > 10psi from any other cylinder, and yours are running the gamut between 120 and 150. Not a good indication of what the internals feel like. The catch is that if the cylinder walls are scored or damaged and the rings aren't the cause of your compression loss, you may have even more work on your plate to make it right.
Luckily, l24's are cheap and easy to come by out here. If you need one sourced, let me know and I'll be happy to help out!
Hey Irish, thanks for the feedback..Seeing the car is stock for now, I went with Mountain Rotors, stainless steel brake lines and new set of pads. Eventually I'll be doing the upgrade on to the Toyota 4x4's, just to get it up and going just now and cruisin' around I don't need that much stopping power as of yet. Stock brakes for the car do just fine the current power output.
ReplyDeleteI'm most likely going to run this motor for a while see if it's any good and how it holds up and then build a high revving L24 with cam and maxima head.